Archive for September, 2009

{Please join us in welcoming Chef JoAnna Minneci. Chef JoAnna runs a home catering and personal chef business at chefjoanna.com, and has made several appearances on tv including an episode with Bobby Flay on The Food Network.  As if that were not enough, take a bite of this:  she and her husband are currently transforming 10 acres of abandoned forest in Tennessee into an organic farm and “Bed & Bistro”, and have plans to build a gourmet restaurant featuring fresh farm raised produce and meats.  You can follow their progress and growth on the Mockingbird Acres blog.

In this very special guest post for Savory Tv, Chef JoAnna teaches us how to incorporate slow food into our fast and busy lifestyles.  Thank you JoAnna! }

Slow Food for Normal People

You may hear famous foodies and professional chefs talk about “slow food” all the time .  Many of us have grown weary of hearing about it, but if you’d like become more familiar with the term, click here to read the wikipedia article for it.

On a grand scale, Slow Food seeks to reconnect people with the food they eat.  They pay attention to the cultures, community, and production behind it.  Slow Food’s members include culinary professionals, food enthusiasts, farmers, food producers, educators, and students.  Slow Food USA aspires for a world in which all people can eat delicious food that is good for them, good for the people who grow it, and good for the planet.

On a more immediate scale, and to understand how the movement got it’s name, slow food is meant to be a direct contradiction to Fast Food.  Italian journalist Carlo Petrini in 1986 organized a protest in response to the opening of a McDonald’s, and was dubbed the father of the movement.  Since then, the Slow Food moment has developed chapters all over the world, and succeeds in making us feel guilty about whether or not what we’re eating is good enough.

Michael Pollan wants us to “eat food, not too much, mostly plants”.  Julia Child would make these offhand comments on her television show, “The French Chef” of how much better life would be if people would take the extra time and make food like they did in the old days.  Don’t get me started on Alice Waters, who I find to be more of a culinary bully than her adversary Tony Bourdain.  Back in March ’09,  I posted my thoughts about that Leslie Stahl piece on “Saint Alice”. Waters has the right idea, but in my opinion her methodology is flawed.  Her premise is that eating good, nutritious food is a right, not a privilege, but her manner of spreading that philosophy reeks of elitism.   Even Julia Child talked a little smack to Alice Waters:

“You have an unduly doleful point of view about the way that most people shop for food.  Visit any supermarket and you’ll see plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables.  And if you don’t like the looks of what you see displayed at the market, complain to the produce manager.”

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Categories : Chefs Speak
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Sep
07

Chefs Speak: Mario Batali and Time

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Yum.  Chef Mario Batali speaks to Time Magazine in this recently released candid 10 question video interview, including answers to the following:

  • What attracted him to Spain for his show with Gwyneth Paltrow
  • His thoughts on Gwyneth and what it was like to travel with her
  • African and French influences in Spanish cuisine and his new cookbook
  • Disaster dishes, what went wrong
  • His favorite two childhood meals served by his mom
  • His thoughts on Ferran Adrià and dining experiences at the restaurant El Bulli

And did you know?  Mario is starring in a new movie to be released in 2010, entitled “Bitter Feast”. It’s currently in post production, and is a horror comedy film about a chef who takes revenge upon one of his food critics.  Watch the (slightly gory) teaser trailer here.  Go Mario!

Categories : Chefs Speak
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{ Savory Tv is pleased to introduce you to Chef Christopher Cina.  A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Christopher is a well seasoned chef, international traveler, and food photographer.  He has worked in restaurant venues around the world, including San Francisco, Europe, and Denver.   He currently lives and works in Denver, Colorado, and has a beautiful food blog at ChristopherCina.com.  Please join us in welcoming Chef Christopher, as he shares a restaurant secret and favorite appetizer recipe with us in this very special guest post! }

©Christopher Cina

White Bean Pâté

In restaurants, the name of the game is money. In your better restaurants, this is tempered somewhat by quality, meaning that chefs and owners are willing to pay more for better quality. The most ‘high end’, well respected and nationally known restaurants have the luxury of passing the cost of quality on to the customer. Not so much for the little guy. Independent operators with talented but unfamous chefs are forced walk that fine line between being overpriced and serving lesser quality ingredients. You would expect to pay $44 for a hangar steak at Robuchon, but would you pay that at a local restaurant downtown that didn’t have a chef with 4 restaurants, a cookbook and a gaggle of Michelin stars?

“Necessity is the mother of all invention.” Never have truer words been spoken and this is a common mantra at every ‘middle-of-the-road’ restaurant trying to watch costs. If there is a cheaper way to do it without sacrificing quality, someone in that restaurant will figure it out. It could be reconfiguring a dishwasher that the chemical guys don’t know about, building a plug out of skewers for that damn Robot Coupe bowl, or a recipe like this White Bean Pate.

In the late 90’s while at my first Executive Chef position, dairy prices were through the roof. So much so that we halved the portion of butter that we served with the bread as an option to help offset the cost. The only other option would be to reprint all the menus with higher plate costs. You see, every restaurant includes a little formula while pricing out dishes, what I call the ‘Q Factor’. It is in every one of my costed out menus. A ‘Q Factor’ is a charge for everything in a restaurant the customer sees as free, because it is not on the bill. I figure in the cost per person of my bread service, meaning bread and butter, I figure in ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, coffee creamer, coffee sweetener, even salt and pepper. That number is figured into every dish on the menu. It’s never a big number, always less than a dollar per plate, but that helps me pay for the things customers see as complimentary.

Back to the pate, I needed to figure out something that would help my butter cost. Halving the butter portion only upset people, they would ask for more and they were getting more than they were originally before we adjusted the portion. I didn’t want to go back to the olive oil, everyone else at that time was doing olive oil, plus it was expensive for really good oil and I wasn’t going to skimp there. I was forced to come up with something original that would act as a butter substitute, hence the white bean pate. It was vegetarian, used a third of the butter and it was different. My guests loved it, they always asked for more, and because the ingredients were so inexpensive, it worked out well. We started getting a lot of requests for the recipe. So many that we began to put a stack of the recipes at the host stand every night.

I use a little more butter in my home version, I’m not worried about the cost as I would be making a much larger batch and who doesn’t love butter? Once made it will keep in the fridge for up to a week. Truth be told, it’s at its best about the 3rd day, when all the flavors have become intertwined.

This recipe makes about 2 quarts of pate.

  • 1 ½ # Great Northern Beans
  • 1 ¼ # butter, softened to room temperature
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 large red onion, julienned fine
  • 1 cup balsamic vinegar
  • ½  cup whole garlic cloves
  • olive oil, about a cup and a half
  • 1/2  cup chopped parsley
  • salt and white pepper to taste

Method

  1. Simmer (do not boil!) the white beans in unsalted water with bay leaves just until they start to split, about 2 ½ hours.
  2. While the white beans are simmering, in a small sauté pan, cover the garlic cloves with oil.  Place them on medium low heat and allow them to soften and turn golden brown.
  3. Allow the garlic to cool.
  4. Drain the oil and reserve in the fridge.
  5. In a small mixing bowl, mash the garlic with a fork.  Reserve until the beans are done.
  6. Heat a larger sauté pan with 2 Tbs. of oil, place on medium high heat.
  7. When the pan is hot, add the onions and cook until they start to develop some color, about 5 minutes.
  8. Add the balsamic vinegar to the onions, reduce by half and remove from heat.  Reserve until the beans are done.
  9. When the beans have finished, remove the bay leaves and drain.
  10. While the beans are still hot, begin to mash them with a large spoon.  You can also mash them in a mixer with the paddle.
  11. Once you’ve mashed the beans, add the butter, half pound at a time and continue to mix until all the butter has been incorporated.
  12. Add the mashed garlic, onions and vinegar, and parsley and mix well.
  13. Season with salt and white pepper.  Keep in mind while seasoning hot ingredients that will be served cold, you want  to slightly over salt as the saltiness will dissipate considerably when served cold.
  14. Remove to a serving dish and chill for at least 4 hours.
  15. Serve with breads, crackers or anything else you might use with a spread.
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